The Blaxpat Weekly #2
Why no Michelin Starred Restaurant in Africa? #unsolicitedAfricanrestaurantreview
I’ve always been peeved that there are no Michelin-starred restaurants in Africa.
Beyond the obvious bias, I’d say there’s a lot to chew on. Restaurant culture, as I’ve experienced it in countries like Cape Verde, Ghana, South Africa, Ethiopia, Mozambique, and Angola, has some inconsistencies. Of course, there are the high-brow, white tablecloth spots (usually around touristy areas) that might seem better placed to nab a star, but when it comes to flavors - authentic ones - those places are rarely places I’d think to write home about. Service can be touch and go. And there are lots of times when what you see on the menu isn’t available or is laden with substitutions.
It was only after living in Lima, Peru, and experiencing Michelin-starred restaurants firsthand, that I figured trying to nab such an accolade would be ever-elusive for my foodmaker friends on the continent. Deserved, though it may be, that bar just doesn’t resonate with my experience as a patron. And, frankly, I’m ok with that, but I do think African restaurants deserve their just due and proper recognition. Some have even asked if there should be a separate rating just for Africa.
I wouldn’t go that far, but it would be nice to see some of my favorite places elevate to acclaim on a global stage. They certainly merit it from a food perspective, even if not from a customer-experience one.
So I started writing my own on IG - #unsolicitedAfricanrestaurantreview
As arbitrary as Michelin stars go, my rating is equally as subjective and (sometimes) more about vibes than taste. Here are some things to know before jumping in.
I’m a pescatarian.
I hate places that lean into being bourgie. It kills my vibe.
I can’t enjoy a meal if it costs too much for the value of the food experience.
I rate service—waiters, parking, personal touch—because this is a restaurant review, not a taste test. Service is a huge part of the restaurant experience.
I try places a few times before posting a review, because (read above) consistency is rare. So, I only rate once my experience rings true over time.
Places I’ve rated so far…
Mozambique: Located on the southeast Indian Ocean coast.
Zambi Restaurant (Maputo, Mozambique)
La Casa Restaurant (Maputo, Mozambique)
South Beach (Maputo, Mozambique)
Pho Viet (Maputo, Mozambique)
Sukri Cafe (Maputo, Mozambique)
Love Cafe (Ponta d’Ouro, Mozambique)
Azzona Breakfood (Maputo, Mozambique)
Dhow (Maputo, Mozambique)
Oak Cafe (Maputo, Mozambique)
O Farol (Maputo, Mozambique)
South Africa: Located at the southernmost tip of Africa.
Tang (Johannesburg, South Africa)
Flames Restaurant at the Four Seasons (Johannesburg, South Africa)
Alto Bar (Johannesburg, South Africa)
Hooked Coffee Co. (Midstream (Gauteng), South Africa)
Where I’ll be eating the rest of this year…
While nothing is promised, here are cities I plan to eat my way through in 2024.
Kampala, Uganda
Cape Town, South Africa
Mbabane, Eswatini
If you have restaurant suggestions, please drop comments below so I can stop by!
Why do restaurants in Africa matter?
In this case, all restaurants matter, but I live in Africa right now - so here we are.
The culinary experience just can’t be separated from travel experiences more broadly. Black travelers have a storied history with being welcomed in the finest establishments on offer. Whether from outright racism and segregation (remember those drinking fountains?) to just feeling unwelcome, we know that restaurant reviews or previews are integral to ensuring that we get good value for cost out of our leisure experiences. With pay gaps and job inequality rampant globally, we also don’t have the time or money to spare on bad tourist experiences.
We’re not in it for the plot. We want the punchline.
As I travel in alignment with the spirit of the Greenbook, I think it best to share my experiences with others in the hopes that they avoid places that make them feel that their time and money have been wasted. I also hope to shine a spotlight on places that really merit kudos and customers. They nourish our bellies and souls.
Restaurants also create high—quality jobs. When done well, they are key parts of a healthy food ecosystem: sea/farm to plate. Making space for domestic markets to consume locally sourced agricultural food production is a matter of survival and sustainability. And, restaurants are a thriving crossroads for people of different backgrounds, cultures, and interests to find commonality, even if just for an hour or two.
When we break bread, we break barriers. And, restaurants on the continent are powerful placemakers for just this kind of transformation.
Food links to watch:
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